Tea Enthusiasts in Hong Kong

Locations: Yuan Yuan Tang, Shueng Wan, Hong Kong

Country: Hong Kong


For the most part, we need to do things a certain way to live a certain lifestyle or, plainly do something we need to do. We moreover do those things without thinking twice. I believe we need to be distracted to think twice about the options in front of us. To make it into uncharted territories.

An example of a distraction could be that you, for example, need to pick up a forgotten hotel umbrella at a random cafe in Hong Kong, a cafe you were at the day before. Hence it is now raining and you don’t have an umbrella, and you don’t want to lose your deposit at the hotel and/or too cheap of a person to buy a new one. It also means changing your plans.

Well, I lived through that example. That forgotten umbrella did lead my mind astray.

I was taken aback by the new “must” to pick up that umbrella, since it led me to go somewhere I had not planned. Sheung Wan. My original plan, to go somewhere else to try my new Mamiya RB67 flash accessory was now postponed.

Luckily I had time before my next appointment later that evening.

On my way to the cafe, It rained heavily, and I was carrying my Mamiya RB67 in my hands while awkwardly hovering over it, with the hope of using it at spontaneous moments. I cannot shield the camera perfectly. I make use of store entrances. Hopping between covers and taking brief breaks. I was simultaneously fighting against The 30 degrees Celsius accompanied by a humidity of 80-90 % surrounding myself and the Camera. I therefore needed to stop and constantly wipe it dry of the mist. During the extended period, it took me to get back to the cafe, it got me thinking. I had not explored Sheung Wan.

Once the rain protector was acquired, I started my new expedition. I took photos, lost myself in the district while taking some photos, and took some more. Proud to be able to juggle my now two-handed Mamiya and the umbrella at the same time in an interesting manner. 

Once I had gotten lost enough times I had the urge to eat lunch. Drawn by hunger, my feet led me to a nearby “Dai Pai Dong”. What I discovered once I was near the food stall, was an exclusive tea shop next door. My curiosity briefly stopped my acing hunger. Curiosity continued to ask me - if it was worth going into the tea shop before having lunch. After playing some mind games I decided to enter the tea store. 

I spent the next 3-3,5 hours in that tea house. 

One might wonder what it was that made me skip lunch that day. Well, “it” was 3 tea masters.

The Mandarin-speaking owner of the shop was called “Candy” and a Pu er tea master. The English-speaking Italian was another tea shop owner with a tea store in Switzerland. The third one is a timid yet enthusiastic Hong Kong native named Amy. Amy had a specific interest in “Rock tea” or Yan Cha. A specific Oolong tea from the Wuyi mountains in Fujian province in mainland China. 

Candy and the Italian were having an ongoing tea tasting when I stepped into the shop. Hesitantly, I was unsure if I was allowed to enter further so as to not disturb. To my surprise, they both welcomed me in. While they continued their doing, I browsed the endless teas and tea-associated items. I was looking around when Candy suddenly appeared. Candy offered me some of the tea they were tasting. Between the two I just encountered, I did not know who was selling to whom. Or even if there was an intention of selling/buying the tea being tested. 

Knowing quite a bit about tea myself, I took notice of the tea cakes and their distinct way of preparing the tea “Kung fu style”. I knew I was in for a treat. What I was offered and received proved my point. The aged and high-end Pu er tea was brewed in such an exquisite manner (with a Gai wan) that the usually heavy almost smoking taste of the tea was hidden behind a lovely fruitful smoothness yet still full-bodied and strong.

They offered me a seat next to them. And with enthusiasm waiting for my thoughts on the taste. With the tiny portion of Mandarin, I knew. I could effectively connect with Candy. The Italian, as surprised, took in my words. I was approved. 

The Italian man was traveling around Asia and staying in Hong Kong for only 2 days. With a pre-booked visit to Candy. To explore her expertise within Pu er and, of course, build business connections. For the next 1,5 hours, we drank tea, shared knowledge, and laughed together. 

While the Italian was packing up another individual walked through the door, Amy.

A slank woman in her mid-30s. Even though she was a regular at the store - making use of Candy as a Shi Fu. She too was unable to process what exactly was going on at first. With time, Amy too became comfortable and talkative. Amy came with further advantages hence she could help me and the Italian to translate Mandarin to near perfect English. The Italian decided thereafter to stay for a bit longer. Eventually, it was just me, Amy, and Candy for another 1,5 hours. Furthermore tasting and discussing not only tea but also senses in general, music, and things to do and see while in Hong Kong.

As time went by, the store had younger and older visitors. Even a first grader came by herself after school to the store to try a cup of tea from Candy.

I was glad to hear that it was a daily occurrence.

Words: Philip Käll

Photos: Philip Käll

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